Fitting Instanter Couplings

I did a test with some wagons on my 19.5” minimum radius and Smith’s Instanters and was pleased to find that I didn't need sprung buffers or any bodgery to get things to work, so for anyone who feels like ditching the volvo bumper and harpoon from their wagon fleet, here’s how I fitted Instanters to my Bachmann Minerals (other varieties of wagon are available).

Invert your victim and remove the wheels to get access to the two crosshead screws.

Lever out the couplings and donate to a worthy cause, unscrew the screws and put in the ‘they’ll come in useful one day’ box.

Cut off the coupling mounts. I use a Xuron Plastic (Sprue) Cutter. Don't get them confused with the rail cutters as you'll bu**er both of them up! Thinks: You could leave the mounts in place should you ever want to replace the tension locks.

Pull the chassis off the body and using a suitable tool lever the weight out. Some come out easily, some don’t. It depends how far down the month's glue ration the factory had got. Discard the weight.

Nip the two lugs off the base of the wagon body - you won’t be needing them and they get in the way of the new couplings.

Cut a channel either side of the dummy coupling hook using a craft knife and open it out. It should run all the way to the floor and be just the right height.

Don’t bother with the spring that comes with the Smith’s Instanter - by the time you get any movement out of it you’ll be pulling the coupling links open. A dollop of 5-minute epoxy resin will hold the couplings in place quite happily. Add weight to taste - self-adhesive lead strip, liquid lead or whatever your chosen method may be. The body is a friction fit and doesn't need to be glued in place unless you particularly want to.

Et voilla.