Motorising an EFE BET Saloon

I wrote this article for the Oct-Nov 2000 issue of Model Buses, but it is still valid and is an easy way to get a motorised UK outline bus.

I used the bus from the 1626 Basis Set, but the Mercedes O.405 has been issued in a number of guises and, as at January 08, can still be obtained in Start Sets from UK and European suppliers.

Step 1

Work starts with an EFE BET single deck. The model can be dismantled by removing the plastic rivets from the baseplate after which the model comes apart. Remove the metal poles that held the model together by bending them backwards and forwards until they snap off.

There are various methods of removing the rivets.

  • You can drill two small holes either side of the metal pole and then use needle-nose pliers to pull the rivet off.
  • You can slide a thin screwdriver between the plastic floor and the metal casting and use it as a lever to force the rivet out.
  • You can use a utility knife to cut the rivet away.

Step 2

lt is best to glue the glazing in place, so if you have any repainting r or detailing to do to the bodyshell, now is the time.

The glazing can be fixed with Humbrol ClearFix. This should be applied on the inside of window pillars and then the glazing is pressed in place. Once the clear fix dries it is invisible.

The chassis is not needed for the completed model. You could of course prepare a number of bodyshells to fit on one motorised chassis, the spare bodyshells could then be placed back on their original chassis and parked up.

Step 3

Once you start dismantling your Faller bus you won't be able to take it back to the shop - so check that it is in fully working order before you start.

You can make a temporary test track by taping a length of guide wire to a board or even a clean floor. Put in a sharp 'S' bend to check the steering.

Right, once you have finished playing we can get on.

Step 4

The Faller bus can be dismantled by unclipping the glazing. Push the windows in at the side and the windows, roof and seating unit will slide up and out.

The windscreen is a separate component and will fall out once the glazing unit has been removed. It is worth retaining the driver figure for use in the completed model.

Lightly glue the rechargeable batteries in place to stop them moving whilst you are working on the chassis.

Step 5

Now for the point of no return.

You need to cut the sides down so that the top is just below the horizontal rubbing strip. I used a combination of craft knife, Stanley knife and razor saw to do this. You don't need to cut completely through the plastic. lf you cut most of the way through and then bend it will snap off. You will need to cut down a small way between the wheelarches and the sides on the inside as the new top of the sides will be below the top of the wheelarches. The chassis forward of the front axle needs to be cut away as does the rear of the chassis up to the charging socket.

Step 6

The chassis needs to be trimmed as close as possible to the charging socket at the back. It helps to trim the chassis back a little on either side of the socket to make it easier to fit into the bodyshell. Put a small piece of adhesive tape over the socket and wires to stop them shorting on the metal bodyshell.

The cut down chassis is a snug fit between the sides of the bodyshell. Gently slide it into place to test the fit and then make any necessary adjustments.

Now try your motorised bus on your test circuit.

Step 7 and beyond

To improve the appearance of the model you can salvage the driver': compartment and passenger stairwell from the EFE seating unit, add the Faller driver and glue them in place in the bodyshell. You will have to trim both the chassis and the driver's compartment back, but it makes a big difference to the front of the bus - which is where most people will look.

The wheelarches on the chassis do not quite line up with the body. The only way to improve this would be to move the charging socket and trim back the power switch. Both are easy jobs. Until you get around to it however. just paint the exposed areas of the chassis black to disguise the problem.

The reed switch that enables the bus to be stopped by a magnet is really on the wrong side of the chassis for a vehicle that is driven on the left hand side of the road. You have the option of living with it, moving it to the seaside or fitting a second one on the nearside.

For the rest of the bus you may wish to install a false floor with the tops of the seats represented with strips of plastic card and the tops of a few figures for passengers.

As I said earlier, one chassis could be used with a number of bodies - the EFE AEC RF could equally well be substituted for the BET saloon.

The plastic of the chassis can easily be cut and lengthened to fit in longer vehicles, although these tend to be wider and you should really move the wheels out by 1mm on each side.

Happy motoring!